As Kerry Awn walks north on Guadalupe Street in Austin, his ears fill with the swishes and roars of the four-lane road to his right, fast with traffic. In front of him, behind him, and to his sides, masses of students walk to class, to their apartments, to their jobs. Not yet summer of 2008, the Texas weather is hot, but not hot enough to make Kerry sweat as he walks down The Drag wearing blue jeans and a thin white long sleeve shirt.
Besides his hair color, now more gray than brown, Kerry looks almost exactly the same as when he was an art student at the University of Texas more than 30 years ago. Similarly, the soiled and cracked sidewalk underneath the press of his old white sneakers is still the same as it always was.
Pausing from his straight-ahead walk, Kerry stops and moves out toward the street. His feet remain on familiar ground but his memory momentarily goes blank as he stares at the strip of storefronts and restaurants that is The Drag. The place where he once partied and hung out is, for a moment, an unknown blur.
Everything in front of Kerry has changed so much that he cannot remember what used to be.
Back to walking, Kerry tries to summon up the past. As he passes a CVS sitting in between Metro coffee shop and the Co-Op Art Store, he recalls that it used to be the old Texas Theatre. Now it’s just another chain store. But look, you can still see the old marquee.
Further north, Kerry takes a look at the two-story red brick building, home to Austin’s Pizza, Wish clothing boutique and Sprint – nothing like when it housed underground newspaper The Rag, an abortion clinic and a draft counselor in the early 1970s.
On around the corner of 24th Street, Kerry sees a two-story retail center on Nueces. A tanning salon and a campus real estate agency take up the top floor. On the bottom, a Smoothie King and a Starbucks.
“The whole corner used to be Les Amis, — the hangout spot,” he says with eyes squinting in a smile.
“You could smoke your cigarette, drink your beer and write poetry. It felt like you were in Paris.”
Back then, green plants grew everywhere and trees stood beautiful over the red tarp covering the patio. The waitresses and cooks smoked pot in the back parking lot and drank wine while cooking up curried vegetables and brown rice for $1.85. Many evenings, the Les Amis crowd would sit at a round table and play strip poker until every body was naked.
But in 1997, manager Newman Stribling could not afford to pay a rent that was three times more expensive. So after 37 years as The Drag’s main café, Les Amis was closed and torn down to make way for Starbucks.
It has been more than a year since Kerry Awn actually stepped out of his car and walked up and down The Drag. Why would I? I have no reason to come down here any more.
***
Kerry Fitzgerald, an art student at UT, wants to paint something beautiful on an outdoor wall after seeing murals all over buildings in California. It’s 1974 in Austin, Texas and Kerry believes that the Lone Star State’s capital city needs some of the same.
Kerry and his roommates and fellow artists, Tommy B and Rick Turner, pick a space that would be great for their plan: On The Drag at the corner of 23rd and Guadalupe stands a large flat wall.
Because the University Co-Op owns their concrete canvas, they go to the Co-Op board meeting with a model of what they have in mind. First time, the board says no. Second time the board says no. Third time the board finally says yes and supplies them with the acrylic paints to do the job.
Every day for the next six weeks, Kerry, Tommy and Rick leave their West Campus abode, departing from the neighborhood of frat houses, apartments and old homes. Once on Guadalupe, The Drag welcomes them with its forces of frivolity. Two women dress up in lacy vintage prom dresses and dance in the street. Another woman walks down the sidewalk topless holding her boyfriend’s hand. Roland DeNoie sells avocado and sprouts on whole wheat from Salvation Sandwiches’ small rolling cart.
At the Renaissance Market, the three painters set up white ladders and scaffolds and bring in buckets of paint. Most days Kerry wears his usual white T-shirt, cut off blue jean shorts held up by a striped belt and aviator glasses. When it gets hot, he takes off his shirt.
At first the vendors aren’t very happy about this new presence on their “reservation.” After years of lining The Drag with blankets and tents to sell their goods, the city held a vote and in 1973, and designated the Renaissance Market as the vendors’ official area. But with some time and beautiful artwork, Kerry and the guys win them over.
Day after day, the mural forms like a fetus in the womb. Vibrant colors of blue, green, red, yellow fuse together to create a life-size postcard of Austin. The capitol building, UT tower, The Ritz downtown, and more all form a curve around the centerpiece of Stephen F. Austin holding an armadillo instead of a gun. After all, with the Vietnam War still drudging on in its fifteenth year, The Drag culture embraces peace and love, not war.
Once Kerry and the guys have completed the mural, everybody who sees it just loves it. Even the Co-Op, initially hesitant to the entire idea, loves what they’ve done and wants to buy the ownership rights. So the guys sell their Austin creation to the University Co-Op for the price of $1,000.
***
Between the present-day Chipotle and a vacant building sits The Drag’s multi-unit, mega-structure, beaming in its grandeur — the University Co-Op. If walking by the Co-Op at nighttime, one can see a subtle burnt orange glow seeping out from behind the big black letters.

Through the eight front glass doors, a sea of burnt orange longhorn memorabilia washes over each customer who comes in as soft pop plays quietly on the speakers and the cold air smells like everything new.
In the middle of the large first-floor room, an expansive array of items makes up the “Graduation Headquarters.” A leather Fossil longhorn purse costs $118. A large burnt orange rolling suitcase with a white longhorn in the middle costs $49.
To the left of the centerpiece, the room fills with stacks and rows of longhorn pens, key chains, magnets, mugs, folding chairs, lunch boxes, towels, mats, hammers and pool floats. An average college student who enjoys a little bit of alcohol every now and then might enjoy the17-foot spread of koozies, shot glasses, beer mugs and champagne glasses.
Up the 23 steps to the second level of the Co-Op, longhorn-themed women’s clothing and accessories spread across the entire floor: Jeans, purses, tank tops, sports bras, workout shorts, bikinis, pajamas and longhorn maternity.
Ten more steps up to the mezzanine level, one can find all the necessities to create the perfect UT-themed game room. A Longhorn gas pump gumball machine costs $1,795 or perhaps one would prefer the Longhorn nostalgic chest cooler for $1,295 full of UT bottled water for 99 cents each.
Across the floor, children’s clothing dangles from the tiniest hangers, such as the longhorn onesies for 18-month-old babies. In the Co-Op Cheer Kids section, parents can find the perfect outfit for their young daughters, a $35 cheerleading suit made by Nike in Thailand.
Back down the 10 steps of the mezzanine level, the 23 steps of the second level, and another 18 steps down to the basement, sit all the books at the University Co-Op Bookstore. But at this time of year, all the shelves are completely empty. Too late for the frenzy of buying books and too early to sell books back during this late spring semester afternoon, only two students stroll around the basement.
***
Tatiana Young has a queer prom to attend in 17 days and she needs something bright to wear. Something very glittery. As she walks down The Drag with her friend Abigail, she stops by Blue Velvet Vintage and takes a gander at what they’ve got.
From outside, she can see a disco ball spinning with mannequins dressed in vintage garb dangling underneath. As she enters through the door, which is always held open by a small rock, the warm air inside smells of dust. She passes a wall covered with already-been-worn shoes, boots and hats. Perhaps the pair of alligator skin shiny silver heels will go nicely with her dress.
With her long and wavy dark brown hair sitting under a wool conductor hat, she browses through the clothes racks, making her way to the back of the shop. Her short skirt reveals a black tattoo that traces the circumference of her Hawaiian brown upper thigh. The Indie French pop tunes of April March are playing loud, but not too loud, over the speakers. Tatiana likes the music she hears.
She files through the vintage dresses that drape from hangers looking for a ‘80s style prom dress. If she decides to purchase one for her queer prom, she will be giving 40 percent of her money to the owner of Blue Vintage – for store supplies, rent and utility bills. The other 60 percent will go to a local consigner, like Lori Jones, who sits behind the cash register on this drab Wednesday afternoon in April of 2008.
Wearing a poofie red skirt, a black T-shirt and black flats, Lori shows men’s swimsuits to a customer. Her deep red purple hair is pinned back with a lime green bow barrette and she wears a black bat ring on her pinky.
Since 2002 Lori has been working at Blue Vintage, where she sells her decorated lighters, magnets and light switch covers. She buys plain light switch covers for cheap at Breed’s Hardware up on 29th Street. Then she paints it with enamel and lays down sheets of photocopied designs. Doing this can take a week.
Lori also re-sells clothing at the store, which she finds “thrifting,” or digging through estate sales, yard sales, whatever.
“I go everywhere,” she says.
Each of the seven or eight consigners has his or her own colored tag. Purple tags hang from Lori’s clothes and accessories. Some days, Lori will not see a single purple-tagged item bought. This isn’t really a bummer, though, because she, like most of the others at Blue Velvet, has another job.
When she’s not helping out the few customers that stroll into the store, Lori sits behind the counter, drinking Red Diamond Fresh Brewed Iced Tea, and talking with her friend, Mitch.
Reminiscing about The Drag, she remembers the summer she worked at the Co-Op for one day and almost every transaction was at least $400.
“UT is a brand,” Mitch chimes in after hearing Lori’s story.
As Mitch sits behind a computer, wearing a fitted light blue T-shirt, a blue baseball cap and a small silver hoop earring in his left ear, he can’t help but speak his mind about the current state of The Drag. After moving back to Austin in 2005, he noticed things had changed.
“It’s the Co-Op. The Co-Op is killing everything. The Co-Op and Starbucks. It’s slowly killing the local feel,” he says.
Taking sips of her iced tea, Lori acknowledges that rising rents and competition from big chain stores and corporations make it hard for some local businesses to stay open. She knows this is a reality Blue Velvet will eventually have to deal with.
“Of course rent is going to go up. If it’s too much, then we’ll just go somewhere else.”
***
Outside the sun shines bright on the old wooden planks of 2610 Guadalupe St. Inside the room is darker, with the only light coming in through two dusty windows, a few yellowed light bulbs and the glow of neon beer signs.
Being the middle of a weekday, Texas Showdown Saloon is not full of loud and drunk college kids. On this Thursday afternoon, a few old regulars sit at the bar and a handful of college-aged guys play pool at two of the three green felt tables. The only noise filling the establishment is the smooth twang of Pasty Cline’s voice, the sizzling of juicy meat being cooked on the grill, and the clicking of shoes on the dirty cobblestone floor.
Past the ancient arcade games, past the booths, wooden tables and benches, past the marlin hanging on the wall, past the old timer’ tin signs that almost completely cover the wooden walls, past the American and Texas flags pinned to the black ceiling, sits the bar in the back right hand corner of the room.
Dozens of pint-size red plastic beer mugs hang from the ceiling over the bar and grill area. Only the regulars can drink out of these. On the bar, a cash register sits draped with a long white piece of paper that reads:
$1,000 REWARD
TO THE CUSTOMER
(NO BROKERS OR REAL ESTATE AGENTS)
THAT FINDS A NEW
HOME FOR
THE TEXAS SHOWDOWN SALOON
IF YOU HAVE ANY GOOD
IDEAS FOR A NEW LOCATION,
CONTACT EDDIE MACK AT
EDDIEMACK78666@YAHOO.COM
The fate that local businesses on The Drag worry about daily, has hit one of the only two bars left on the street in the face.
“It’s not about rent,” Doe Montoya says as she grills thick globs of ground beef into hamburger patties.
“We would pay as much as we could to stay open.”
Her long black hair falls down over her black T-shirt-covered body and she talks with a smile that still has hope for something to happen. She works at Showdown full time, over time really. So when the bar closes on May 25, she doesn’t know what she will do.
It’s not just that she won’t have a job. But because the landlord is closing Showdown to make way for something newer, something fancier, Doe is reminded of all the other independent Drag stores that she’s seen replaced by chains and corporations.
As she cooks up burgers and fries, manager Eddie Mack takes beer orders from the people standing in line. Chris Luchey and John Mosely have been here since 3 o’clock for “happy minutes,” a 15-minute college kid heaven when all domestic drafts cost only 40 cents.
Looking at the piece of paper that hangs from the register like a unexpected and unwelcome eviction notice, Chris and John plan where they will go to drink beer and play pool. Maybe Hole in the Wall, a couple of blocks south on The Drag. Or maybe Posse East or Crown and Anchor in North Campus.
Chris, a statistics student, still has time to decide what to do with his life. But John, a history senior, will graduate in less than a month and feels scared about having no idea what he’s going to do. But they don’t think about that right now. All that matters right now is that whoever loses the next game of pool is buying the next round of beer.
After getting their beer from Eddie, Chris and John walk back to the pool table. The dwindling beer line at the register reveals Tom Painter, sitting on a heavy metal barstool and drinking from one of the Showdown regular’s mugs.
Wearing starched blue jeans, a gray long sleeve shirt and brown loafers, Tom sits with his wrinkling hands cusped around his mug. Every now and then, he raises the glass to his mustache-covered upper lip to take a sip of dark beer. For Tom, it doesn’t really matter what kind of beer he drinks, just as long as it is cold.
Tom started drinking beer here 27 years ago when the Showdown first opened. And now he’s old, too old. His body fails him sometimes, but his mind never does. Some days are better than others and today he’s surviving.
A retired national guardsman, Tom doesn’t live in Austin anymore, but dwells in hot and humid Thailand. Yes, just as humid as Texas, but hotter. Though each year he flies 18 hours back to Austin to do his taxes, he calls Thailand home. But every tax season, he comes back to Showdown at least once.
The past at Showdown was good for Tom. He often used to spend time at the bar during the ‘80s. He and his group of friends would meet to drink beer and socialize. Now, all the others in the group have died. Tom is the only one left.
Back then, the bartenders would draw ten numbers every day and if they drew your number, you got free beer the whole day. Tom sometimes bribed the bartenders to pick his number. Once he drank 17 free pints of beer. He felt awfully proud of himself until another guy drank 25.
But that was then, Tom says. Things change and now Showdown is closing and there is nothing anybody can do. You can’t stay in the past. You’ve got to move on.
***
It rained in Austin all Sunday morning. Hail dropped down into the streets and cracked as it hit the pavement. Now that the storm has cleared off, the temperature still feels a little too cold for almost-May in Texas.
Down here on The Drag, the sun is starting to shine for the first time all day. Strong winds blow dried-out brown leaves onto the sidewalk and up into the air. With the many clouds filling the once blue sky, the rays have to fight for their space to shine down their warmth.
Students wear light sweaters and jeans as they return from shopping trips, carrying orange bags full of goods from the Co-Op, and white and teal bags from Urban Outfitters. As they pass the completely empty Renaissance Market, hot coffee in white Starbucks cups warms their cool bare hands through a thick java jacket.
Though the spring semester of 2008 at the University of Texas is coming to a close, The Drag doesn’t stop. During the semesters of the past, The Drag has been a river of culture for UT students and Austinites. But as the semesters of the future come and go, people will get older and the times will keep changing.
Most likely, the businesses on The Drag will continue to play musical chairs, with old ones leaving for new ones and the recent ones leaving for even newer ones – the nature of American capitalism. As the nation continues to massively remodel its past, some say we are killing the good. But a question lingers — Is this new development progress? Is it really better? Whatever, the answer may be, The Drag isn’t dead yet. Because memories of what it used to be still remain.